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Router table project with integrated Triton 2.25 HP plunge router
The dimensions chosen for
this particular router table are 32 inches wide and 24 inches deep.
These dimensions
are variable and should be based on your requirements. I have chosen to
offset the router insert towards the
front of the table since this is where most routing is performed. The
design of this table also provides for
use of
the rear of the table when a larger table surface is required.
This is performed by simply flipping the fence
around
and routing in the opposite direction. I have decided to not
incorporate a miter slot and instead will build a router
sled to be able to rout at right angles to the table. Another
decision was to build the router table top as a torsion
box with glued and screwed internal supports or webbing,
this to eliminate any possibility of table sag. The torsion
box will be very rigid and unable to sag due
to its inherent I-beam design characteristics.
There are two 3/4 in. slots on either side of the router which will
house 1/4-20 aluminum T-tracks ( 3/8 in. X 3/4in.).
The T-tracks provide the fastening and adjustment of the adjustable
fence. The router table top itself is 3/4 in. thick.
The inspiration for the router table top and fence originate from an
earlier Popular Woodworking article.
My criteria for this router table are:
- my preferred table height ( 37 inches)
- table dimensions which suit the type of work I do ( 32 in. wide X 24
in. deep)
- simple to build, using standard dimensioned lumber
- flexibility of fence orientation on table top
- good dust collection
- ease of accessing the router from the top or bottom
- ease of removing router for hand held use
- ability to both adjust router bit height and change router bits from
top
- eliminate possibility of table sag
- to incorporate rigidity and mass in table
I chose the Veritas circular router base
plate kit to mount the Triton router. This router plate kit has some
interesting features such as rigidity, ease of adapting and installing a
router to, and can be removed from
underneath the table. The low cost of the router plate kit, very good
directions for mounting a router,
and a small footprint ( 9 inches diameter) of the plate were also
deciding factors.
Above, after removing the Triton router
factory base plate, a clear plastic template is installed on the metal
base to begin the process of installing the Veritas router plate. The
plastic template is part of the Veritas kit
and along with an included 1/2 inch pin serves as an alignment tool to
mark and transfer the base plate holes
to the Veritas plate. The router mounting holes are transferred to the
template above using a small pin through
the plastic template. The plastic template is temporarily taped to the
Triton base to keep it oriented correctly.
Above, the same plastic template is
transferred to the Veritas circular plate along with the 1/2 inch pin
and an
included washer. The washer is used to center the pin in the new
router plate. The pin holes created
earlier are
transferred to the plastic plate using a pin punch. The
marked holes are drilled through using a
countersink bit
provided with the Veritas kit. This bit also forms the
countersink for the router mounting screws.
Above, the freshly drilled Veritas plate
is temporarily mounted to the router base using the 1/2 inch pin and
washer. This centers the Veritas plate on the router bottom. Once
centered, a trammel bar is installed on the
pin and two 3/16 inch holes drilled on the outer circumference of the Veritas plate. These holes will serve
as
pivot points for the router when routing out the hole for the insert.
You will also notice another hole in the
Veritas plate at the top. This 1/2 inch hole allows the above table
adjustment tool to attach to the router raising
and lowering mechanism. The Triton instructions specify where to drill
this adjustment hole on the router plate.
Above, the Veritas router plate with all
holes drilled and countersunk. To the left are instructions to use the
router with the new Veritas base plate attached to rout a corresponding
lipped hole in the router table using
the small index holes previously drilled on the edge of the router
plate. These two holes and the provided pin
serve as pivot points for the router. The bolt and rubber sleeve on the
edge of the new router plate serve to
keep the router plate locked in the table, to keep it oriented, and to
prevent any side to side movement..
Above, the new router plate bolted to the Triton router. The router bit
adjustment hole is also visible along with
the locking pin on the edge of the router plate which was mentioned
earlier. The screws used to bolt the router
to the new router plate are flat topped and recessed to just below the
surface of the router plate.
Above, one of the other steps involved in
routing out the router plate hole. These steps are well
explained in the
literature provided with the Veritas router plate. You
will also notice the layout lines
drawn out on the underside
of the table. These layout lines are used for
measuring and orienting the torsion
box inner frame members.
Above, the top of the router table with
the router plate insert routed out but still attached to the router
table.
The 1/2 inch diameter metal pin is inserted in center hole of the router
plate mount and is used to pivot the
router around to create the router plate recess. The router is pivoted
from the small 3/16 in. diameter holes
drilled through the outer circumference of the new router plate. These
3/16 in. plate holes fit the 3/16 in. pin
at the center of the hole above. The T-slot tracks are also dadoed in at
this point. The dadoes are approximately
5 inches from the edges of the router table top. These dadoes will house
the 3/8 in. deep X 3/4 in. wide
T-track aluminum channels.
Above, a view of of the 3/4 in. baltic
birch router table top table with 3/4 in. dadoes and router insert hole
created.
The dadoes were created on a table saw with a dado setup. The router
table top was run against the table saw
fence to create the dadoes. I have taped the hole to keep from damaging
it during construction of the router table.
Above, the underside of the router table
with markings for the individual frame menbers of the torsion box.
The outside edges of the router table will have edging installed once
complete. You can also see the larger
components in each corner. These are 2X4 leg pairs to hold the table up
at approx. 36 inches. There will be
a reinforcing skirt around the upper section of the router table
consisting of 3/4 inch baltic birch panels.
The small routed ears or openings on either side of the router table
slot allow the router to be removed from
underneath the table.
Above, the Veritas router table plate
test-fitted to the new router table top. The depth of the router plate
lip
is
critical and the plate should be flush or just slightly below the
table top.
Above, the Triton 2.25 HP plunge router.
This router is ideal for router table mounting and includes the above
table
router bit height adjustment tool.
Above, the router table top now has the
T-slot tracks installed. These tracks have been both epoxied and screwed
into the router table top. The spacing of the tracks from the outside
edges is critical and should be exactly the
same
to provide the flexibility of reversing the fence on the router table
top. The fence can be reversed to use either
the front
or rear of the router table for routing. Since the router plate is
offset to the front of the table, the rear of the
table allows
more table area available when routing wider boards.
Above, holes have been pre-drilled
through the underside for mounting the torsion box frame members.
The holes
are evenly spaced in this case. The area surrounding the
router itself is left open to
be able to access the different
router adjustments, knobs, and on/off
switch. Also, this provides
room for router heat dissipation and the below
table dust collection I
have planned for later.
Next I will flip the table top over and countersink the pre-drilled
holes
for installation of mounting screws.
Above, the same holes are countersunk
through the router table top. Once the table is completely assembled
I plan to fill these holes before applying a protective finish to the
table top.
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